Stopping time on Lake Garda

Making everyone smile, Olimpia’s welcome completely disarms us: “Before we taste the wines would you like to see the gardens and Lake Garda?”

The garden turns out to be a private oasis on Bardolino’s shoreline, overlooked by the fourhundred- year-old palace built by her ancestors. From a knoll we view the sparkling lake as meadow scents rise from the turf and sunshine warms our shoulders. The moment seems to concentrate, and Time slows. This pleasure and heightening of senses are perfect preparation for wine appreciation in a brick vaulted tasting room within the palace.

Curious about a family photo with Lady Diana on the windowsill, conversation turns to Olimpia’s mother, Countess Rizzardi, knighted by the Italian President in 2010, who is every bit as extraordinary as the wine we now taste.

The 2009 vintage was the first Amarone crowned Italy’s Best Red Wine, but it is the 2006 Amarone Calcarole Cru which wins today. A wine of great beauty; black fruits, slightly sour cherry, violets, incredibly long, luscious deliciousness. Lunch? Absolutely.

The vintage experience continues -bubbles in hand – as we are skippered across Lake Garda in a 1950s Riva Aquarama to the restaurant’s jetty and ushered by the Ma tre D’ to a long table under the curious gaze of diners who arrived by road.

We start to feast, tucking into fresh-water shrimp in orange zest matched perfectly to Amedeo Cavalchina, a local white wine from Custoza. Fanned by gentle breezes, deep contentment settles as we gaze up the lake amid carefully tended gardens. Such moments when time stops are truly precious.